This area of the county borders the Shannon Estuary and continues on through Loop Head to Kilkee.

Travelling from Ennis along the western shore of the river Fergus is the town of Kildysart, with the historic Paradise House and Cahercon situated nearby. Also of interest is Canon Island with its Augustinian Abbey which is a listed National Monument. This route is the best approach to County Kerry from Ennis.

The town of Kilrush with a population of approx. 2000 is the major settlement in this region. The Marina in the harbour is a recent addition and attracts many pleasure craft on route to watch the Dolphins in Shannon Estuary or exploring the Clare coast. There is a Market in the town square and numerous quaint pubs and shops. Passengers for the Kilimer to Tarbert Car Ferry continue on to Kilimer, just 4 miles south of Kilrush. The Ferry crossing takes 20 minutes and boats depart the pier every hour and again on the half hour during the tourist season. The Vandeleur Garden on the outskirts of the town to the south are part of the old Vandeleur family estate and have been preserved and restored under the auspices of Clare County Council. There is over 400 acres of woodland in the estate, which provides some lovely walks. The Vandeleurs were benevolent and progressive landlords. The church in Kilrush has some fine stained glass windows. A Memorial to the Manchester Martyrs and the Market House are also of interest. Golf is available at Kilrush Golf Club

Cappagh Pier is 1.6km to the south and was once a busy port for the importation of animal feeds, timber an other supplies for this area. The island to the west is that of Scattery Island, site of a sixteenth century monastery founded by St Sennan. A well preserved round tower and the remains of 5 churches are what are left of the settlement. Boat tours to the island and to watch the Dolphins can be arranged in summer at Kilrush.

Midway between Kilrush and Kilkee lies Moyasta, the turning point of the West Clare Railway. Rail cars and engines came to a halt at the junction, to be wheeled about for the return to Ennis. An ambitious restoration of the Slieve Callan locomotive and some rolling stock has been undertaken by the Whelan family. The enterprise includes a visitor’s centre with the carriages on display. In the immediate future the plan is to restore some track and have a token service available to enthusiasts and tourists.

Kilkee is one of Clare’s prominent seaside resorts and has developed tremendously over the past ten years. Originally a Victorian retreat, the seafront contains many buildings from that era. The bay with its natural breakwater rock barrier made the strand a safe place to bathe and play. In summer the beach is full of families and day trippers enjoying the pursuits of the seaside. During the Victorian era at the West End a series of enclosed pools were constructed that allow bathing even in low tide. Many activities are available along the coast including surfing, scuba diving, angling and boating.

Scuba Diving is renowned in Kilkee. Depths of up to 30 metres are available from the shore itself. There is plenty to see, with underwater canyons, vertical cliffs, urchins, starfish, coral, sea anemone and laminar forests. The Diving Centre hire equipment and can arrange dives and instruction.

As with all seaside resorts, the town is busiest during the period June to September. Kilkee is a great family place with activities for all. Waterworld is a family entertainment centre with lots of water based fun activities. The town has a good selection of eateries and fine dining restaurants, pubs with music and cafes. The Golf Club situated just outside the town welcomes visitors and provides a great facility at very reasonable rates. A Thalassotherapy centre in Grattan Street continues the link with the sea and in particular an old seaside custom of the “seaweed baths”. Further tourist information is available at the information office at Waterworld.

The Loop Head Peninsula stretches from Loop Head at the tip of the county by the Shannon River to the seaside town of Kilkee. From Kilkee, the journey is 57km and is a lovely excursion with many places of interest. Leaving Kilkee the best route is by the West End and follows the coast by the Diamond Rocks and Doonlickey Castle. At Goleen Bay turn inland through Newtown and then 6km onwards to the village of Cross. Beyond this point at 4km the road forks and driving straight ahead you reach the Bridges of Ross.

The Bridges of Ross are signposted. There are several geographic rock formations hewn by the rugged Atlantic over centuries. The Bridge itself is of natural rock, the result of erosion of the rock face into a cave, at first, and then through much pounding of the ocean, all that is left is the span of rock that forms the “bridge”. Other seascape icons such as sea stacks and caves abound. The scenery is dramatic and it is a lovely place to admire the powerful raw Atlantic Ocean.

From Ross the road passes along the shores of Ross Bay and towards the cliffs of Loop Head. Turn left and shortly up the road is the church of Moneen. The Little Ark is preserved in the church. During penal times in 1850, parishioners were refused land for the building of a catholic church. The Parish Priest, Fr Michael Meehan had a little box on wheels constructed which would be rolled down to the shore and placed between the low tide and the high tide mark. In this “no man’s land” the people celebrated mass. The “ark” is a lovely wooden structure about seven feet tall with glass windows. Also in the church is a copy of “the immaculate conception” by Murillo presented by Lady Petre.

The village of Kilbaha lies about 2km ahead, and westward is the Lighthouse of Loop Head. The Light House is sadly no longer manned, but the building has been transformed into a hostel and is maintained by the Commissioners of Irish Lights. The Coast can be explored on foot and lovely views pertain over the Shannon and the north Kerry coast.

Returning to Kilbaha and retracing the journey the village of Carrigaholt comes into view. Carrigaholt Castle and the lovely harbour are steeped in history. The village has a couple of fine bars that serve seafood and snacks and are quite popular with visitors and locals.

West Clare

The area between Kilkee and Milltown Malbay is known as West Clare. The N67 is the main road along this stretch.

Doonbeg village is 12km north of Kilkee. The village itself is situated slightly inland from the ocean. Doonbeg Castle, a Mc Mahon stronghold that later fell to the O’Brien’s lies in ruins nearby. The village has a timeless character and contains some popular pubs and restaurants and a strong tradition of Irish music. The beach nearby at Doughmore Bay spans an impressive 2.5 kilometres and is one of the best surfing locations on the West Coast. In recent years, the Dunes, once reconnoitred by the Merchant Princes of Limerick for a golf course in the 1890’s, has become the location for one of Greg Norman’s most famous links designs and an impressive golf resort of world class. The golf aspect is covered in more detail in our golf section, but the club welcomes visitors and the facilities of the clubhouse are open also to non playing visitors.

Cooraclare is further on the road and gives its name to the river that flows through the village. The river can be a good fishing place, especially following heavy rain. Kilmihil lies further east and the lake at Knockalough offers good trout fishing.

As you travel through this area it is hard to believe that much of the land here was once densely wooded. Bog is now all that remains and indeed, a peat burning electricity turbine was situated not far from Quilty until the mid 1970’s. This is a sea fishing area and the harvesting of seaweed was also once a major activity. The Church in Quilty was built as a direct result of the saving of a French boat, the Leon XIII in 1907. The grateful families of the survivors sent subscriptions to Quilty that were used to fund the church. To the west lies Mutton Island where it is recorded in 900AD, that a tidal wave split the island into three parts, and swept 2000 people away. Close to the island also, in 1588, one of the ships of the Spanish Armada foundered on reefs with the loss of nearly 1000 men.

Many of the 1000 crew of the Spanish vessel were washed up on the shore at Spanish Point. Their fate however, was to be executed by the High Sheriff of Clare, Boetius Clancy under orders from the British Government.

To-day, Spanish Point has developed its tourist interests, the fine sandy beach with excellent surfing, a testing nine hole golf links and some of Clare’s best known hotels with restaurants and other amenities that are up to the minute in design and operation.

Miltown Malbay was once a thriving centre of craft industry and agricultural produce, with plenty of space on the main street for the various markets and fairs that trade demanded. To-day the town is embracing the new technology with an ambitious plan for an “E commerce” network hub. Home to the old Gaelic poet Michael Coimin and latterly to the fine piper Willie Clancy, in whose honour the town celebrates with a music festival each July. Milton Malbay was the second town in Ireland to be burned during the Black and Tan War in reprisal for the ambushes at Rineen and Canda Cross. The street scape of the town is typical with many old facades preserved.

Nearby in Kilfarboy Church, the sailors of the Armada are buried along with Andrew Mac Curtain, bard to the O’Briens and the other great poet Micheal O’Coimin.