Archaeological studies were undertaken in 1961 by Professor Ruaidhri de Valera and subsequent studies by various teams from NUIG and other august bodies. It would seem that the first settlers arrived in Clare around 2000 B.C from North West France, where a large number of pre-historic tombs may be seen which are similar in construction to those standing in different parts of the county.

While our knowledge of the earlier settlers is somewhat limited, we know that they were a pastoral people of nomadic origin and that their sojourn here was of a long duration. The Burren, in particular has much evidence of the early settlements. One fine example is at Caherconnell, where the Davoren family have preserved and enhanced an enclosed settlement which is open for public viewing.

The Celts arrived here around 500 B.C. and they brought with them a sense of organisation. They carried with them a new language and technology. The Celts had discovered iron and we have much evidence of their earlier implements and tools which had a civilizing effect on the countryside. As they settled here, the Celts introduced a new and dramatic approach to art and culture which has endowed our people with definite traits which have become characteristic of our time. Two of the principal traits are the love of Gaelic games, and traditional music and dance. The phenomenon of Riverdance is directly attributable to our Celtic forbearers. We have records which tell us of great events once held in Tara, the national Celtic capital where, under the patronage of the High King, sports, games, feats of strength ad merriment were enjoyed by all who gathered at the great assembly.

The descendants of the tribe of Cas moved to the territory during the 7th century. The sept now known as the Dal Cassians was destined to play a major part in history. They first occupied a strategic position near the Shannon in Killaloe. From this line came the great leaders including Mahon and of course, the great High King himself, Brian Boru.

“Mahon King of Dal-Cas,
Throned in his place proudly,
Drank the mead from a costly glass,
Whilst his poet harped loudly
Traced in song his lineage long,
To the times of ancient story,
An praised the prowess of Cennedi’s sons
And counted their deeds of glory.”

Brian Boru extended his lordship over the countryside. Boru fought the invading Norsemen, and uniting the many tribes and the four provinces of Ireland. He led a march through the country, which concluded with the epic victory in the battle of Clontarf in 1014.

Brian Boru constructed a royal residence at Kincora and rebuilt the churches in Killaloe. He restored the small pilgrim churches on holy island that the ravaging Norsemen had plundered. The unity achieved by Brian Boru among the provincial kings was not maintained by his successors, and we learn later in history, that they spent much time fending off attacks from within and outside their provinces.

Among the later rulers of Thomond was Domhnall Mor Ua Briain (1140), who is remembered in history as the most munificent builder of churches and the patron of many monasteries throughout his Kingdom. Domhnall Mor is associated with the abbey of Corcomroe in the Burren, St Flannan’s cathedral in Kilaloe and the unique convent for the Canonesse of St Augustine at Killone near Ennis.

The Battle of Dysart of Dea in 1318 is another important point in our history. Here, near Corofin, Muircheartach Ua Briain with the support of the O’Deas, O Connors and O’Hehirs and numerous other local clans defeated the Norman lord Richard de Clare. As a result of the battle, intrusions by the Anglo Norman forces finally ceased.

When finally the O’Brien kings were forced to surrender to English power and authority, this portion of Thomond became a county of English institutions during the reign of Elizabeth I. Time under the rule of Elizabeth was one of divided loyalties and turmoil. The Oath of Supremacy had to be taken by all public officials, a matter that caused many problems for the catholic Irish.

The O Brien’s were thrown into turmoil when Donough Ua Briain was conferred with the title Earl of Thomond by Edward VI. The title involved the exclusion of other members of the family from their rights under Gaelic tradition of Tanistry. The family rose in arms against him and attacked his castle at Clonroad in Ennis. Thus began the internecine battles for power that would beset the county for decades.

As a result of the family feuds and confiscation of property, people in Clare were not well off in the 17th and 18th century. One of the country’s most prominent writers, Dean Swift wrote in 1727 “A stranger in Ireland might think himself in Lapland, rather than in a country so favoured by nature as ours, both in fruitfulness of soil and temperature of climate. The dress and appearance of the people is miserable, the old seats of nobility and gentry in ruins and no new ones in their place. The families of farmers who pay big rents are living on potatoes and buttermilk without a shoe or stocking to their feet.”
Several terrible famines took place in Ireland in the 18th and 19th centuries. In Clare there was a dramatic effect as the population fell from 286,000 in 1841 to 166,000 in 1854 and continued in decline for much time afterwards.

Despite the harrowing period of famine and oppression, the people did not abandon their sense of nationality and attachment to the Gaelic tradition. They also remained steadfastly loyal to their faith. Even through the invasion of Cromwell in 1650 and the persecution of Catholics, the people established secret places of worship on hills, in caves and coves.
The oppression had a galvanizing affect on people. The rising of 1798 in Wexford produced a ripple in Clare and though ultimately unsuccessful, kindled the desire of the people for freedom.

Thomas Davis and confrere, William Smith O’Brien, MP for Ennis and scion of the O’Brien’s of Thomond argued for relief from starvation for the people of Clare in 1843.
Later, in 1848 he led a skirmish with Police in Tipperary. He was tried for treason and exiled to Tasmania with other members of the “Young Irelanders”. This period in Ireland was one of idealism and lead to the concept of nationalism that fuelled later struggles. Davis wrote many fine speeches and produced ballads such as “A Nation Once Again” and “The West’s Asleep”.

Daniel O’Connell became an adopted son of the county when he was successfully elected to parliament in 1828. O’Connell, known as “the Liberator” had an intimate knowledge of the way of life and wants and aspirations of the people. During his period, he succeeded in having many of the penal laws removed and ultimately settled the question of Catholic Emancipation. Up to this point, Catholics were barred from holding positions of authority in government, the judiciary and even prevented from becoming members of Parliament.

In 1890, Ennis was host to another great Irish leader, Charles Stewart Parnell, who declared a new policy for dealing with land tenancy. “When a man takes a farm from which another had been evicted you must shun him on the roadside when you meet him, you must shun him in the streets of the town, you must shun him in the shop, you must shun him in the fairgreen and in the marketplace and even in the place of worship, by leaving him alone, by putting him in a moral Coventry, by isolating him from the rest of his country as if he were the leper of old, you must show your detestation of the crime he has committed”. Thus the word “boycott” was enshrined forever in our lexicon. An eyewitness described his demeanour on that occasion; “what a king he looked standing on the platform that night, so handsome, so quiet and self possessed”
The Home Rule movement followed from the Parnell era and Clare again had representation in the name of Willie Redmond, who was a leading member of the campaign. His Brother, John Redmond believing that supporting the Union with England would lead to eventual home rule for Ireland, urged Irishmen to join the British army in 1914. Willie Redmond joined the forces in the First World War to “do his duty”. Dillon was subsequently killed in action and in the ensuing election for his seat in Parliament, Eamonn De Valera, one of the leaders of the 1916 rising in Dublin was elected.

The de Valera era was one of great change in Ireland. Home Rule had been defeated and the events of 1916, though not initially successful in their aims, had sown the seeds of direct conflict with England. Agitation was rife throughout the country as Sinn Fein politically, and the IRA physically brought the struggle for freedom to the people. The period between 1912 and 1922 saw much conflict and the introduction by England of the “Armed Specials” or “Black and Tans” as they were commonly called, due to their mix of uniform. Nearly every village and community throughout Clare has stories to tell of the events of that period. The culmination of events was the declaration by De Valera of the Free Sate in 1922, which later was negotiated into a 26 county republic.

The image of Clare today is one of a county steeped in tradition and history. We have tales and fables to tell about our ancient monuments, our great heroes and heroines. The chequered history of the great castles and houses in the county is chronicled and well worth exploring. No matter where you travel, you will find a local or historian with a great knowledge of their environs. A simple enquiry can reveal great stories and can lead to a most pleasant discourse.