The Burren

The Northern part of County Clare is known as the Burren. The area is bordered by the towns of Kilfenora and Lisdoonvarna to the south and Gort and Kinvara to the East. The landscape is at times lunar, with vast pavements of limestone stretching out for miles like a limestone desert (called “karst” by geologists).

Cromwell’s lieutenant General Ludlow, on visiting the area described it: “It is a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth to bury him”… however, Ludlow did go on to qualify the bald statement with “… and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grass growing in turfs of earth, of two or three square, that lie between the rocks, which are of limestone, is very sweet an nourishing.”

To ensure that a tour of the Burren is enjoyed to the fullest, it is best to start with some information on the area and have the benefit of local knowledge. In Kilfenora, there is a centre dedicated to the area where audio visual and other information is available. The Burren Display Centre is open daily in the summer months from 10.00am and is the best place to begin to understand this wonderful landscape.

Kilfenora is 8km south east of Lisdoonvarna and is an ideal starting point for the Burren journey. The village was formerly the Episcopal see of the Kilfenora Diocese. The Cathedral dedicated to St Fachnan though small and somewhat in ruin, contains some fine architectural details. The Irish Heritage service, Duchas, has renovated a portion of the church to cover an array of Celtic Crosses that were previously exposed. The intricate decorations on the stone are part of the national Celtic heritage and well worth a view. Of particular note is the famous Doorty Cross.

Kilfenora has a number of local pubs that serve snacks and good food and where music and dancing is available later in the day. Due south of the village is Lickeen lake, the principal water reservoir for North Clare and an idyllic spot for some trout fishing. Boats, tackle and some rods are available for hire at the lakeside. On better days it is a nice place for a picnic and a walk around the lake edge.

Journeying east from Kilfenora after about 6km the ruins of another castle emerge. Lemaneagh Castle was a fortified house of the seventeenth century with transomed windows. It marks the change in construction from the narrower castles with slit windows, to the more spacious dwelling that we see before us. The original gateway was removed from here and placed at Dromoland Castle in Newmarket on Fergus. Conor O Brien resided here with his wife, Maire Ruadh O’Brien. Maire Ruadh is a legend in these parts, with many strange stories told of her prowess. It is said that following a battle with General Ludlow’s soldiers in 1651, O’Brien was wounded and brought back to Lemaneagh by his men. Maire Ruadh refused his entry with the greeting “We want no dead men here”. She later relented and nursed O’Brien for a short time until he died of his injuries. Fearing the lands would be confiscated on the death of her husband, Maire Ruadh donned her finest and proceeded to Limerick to meet Ireton, Cromwell’s deputy chief in Ireland. She requested that she be allowed to marry Cooper, one of his officers. The request was granted and Maire Ruadh saved the lands at Lemaneagh and the Castle.

Northwards from Lemaneagh the Burren landscape unfolds. In prehistoric times the area was thickly populated and the area has a remarkable number of stone forts. Further on the road on the left hand side is probably one of the finest remaining forts at Caherconnell. The Davoren family, who have deep roots in the area have sensitively developed a visitors centre here and for a modest fee, tourists can enjoy a fine audiovisual presentation on the fort, the hinterland and farming patterns that have evolved in the area since the start of civilization.
Shortly after Caherconnell lies the Poulnabrone Dolmen, the most famous of the Burren dolmens and megalithic tombs. The unique tripod of stone with the large capping stone was a burial chamber, but it was also of deep spiritual significance. The portal stones of the dolmens were orientated to the rising sun. The wedge tombs found elsewhere in the Burren are orientated towards the setting sun. The majority of the tombs in the Burren are wedge tombs and date from between 2000BC and 3000 BC.

The area has some remarkable flora. Geologically, the Burren was created following the movement of the melting ice cap at the end of the Ice Age. The moving ice gathered the soil from the rock and stripped it bare. In the journey plant and flower seeds were deposited in the ice. As the ice reached the sea, the melting cap deposited these seeds along the Burren area where they dispersed into the clints and grikes of the exposed rock. The coast of Ireland is fortunate to receive the warm air currents from the Gulf Stream that passes by. The rock of the Burren acts as a storage heater. The summer sun is gathered and the heat stored. Slowly over the winter months this warmth is released. The soil between the rocks is very fertile and shields the delicate plants from the harsher elements above. It is not possible to view these plants from a car; rather; you must explore the old pathways and “green roads” that abound in the area that will lead you to the hidden treasures of the landscape. The dominant flora is alpine-artic. Sheets of the Dryas, Arctostaphylos, Gentian and Sesleria cover the ground to sea level. Frost and Snow are very rare here. Also we find southern types such as Neotina intacts (Burren Orchid) and Adiantum capillus-veneris (Maiden-hair Fern). It is in late May and early June that the Burren is at its best, this is the time when the Dryas and Gentian are in full bloom. In the rock uplands the vegetation is sparse and confined to east-bent shrubs and trees. There are also areas of thick hazel dominated scrub that hide the sheltered valleys and glens. This is a unique area of beauty and contrast. The government has designated the Burren as a National Park and has created a special fund for the management of the area. Signs advising tourists on the delicate nature of the terrain are being placed at sensitive spots and a ranger service will be in place to assist in good practice for both tourists and natives alike.

Further on towards Ballyvaughan is another of the region’s great caves at Aillwee and one of the counties premier attractions. The region is full of vanishing lakes called “turloughs” that are tidal in nature. For much of the year the lakes are part of the landscape, but can disappear literally overnight through a series of swallow holes and underground passages and caves. Exploration of the network of caves has been ongoing for years, often only possible with wetsuits and special breathing apparatus. In 1976, however, the Ailwee cave was opened to public access and the great dripstones (stalactites and stalagmites etc.) were illuminated to tremendous effect. The caves can be accessed on foot without use of stairs or steps and in comfort.

At Slieve Elva, Pollnagollum cave system has been explored by potholers for many years with over 11 km of passages to be traversed. The Doolin cave system is also another popular place for this exciting pastime.

Ballyvaughan sits at the shore of Galway Bay close to Aillwee and has long been established as a point of entry to the area. The quaint Irish thatched cottages in the holiday villages give a romantic air to the town. Craft shops, cafes, pubs hotels and restaurants blend in to a typical Irish scene. There are many options ahead in terms of touring. The Coast road back to Doolin, passes by Black head Lighthouse with more stunning views over Galway Bay and the Aran islands. There are many fine walks by Gleninagh and great limestone pavements by the seashore with boulders and other debris from the melting ice cap of so many years ago.

Back to Lisdoonvarna the immediate road twists up the Corkscrew Hill where an ideal vantage point over Galway Bay can be achieved. Even if you had not intended returning to Lisdoonvarna, it is worth the detour for the panoramic view over Ballyvaughan and the bay.

If you continue north east from Ballyvaughan the old Coastguard Station comes into view. These days it is the venue for a craft shop and café with the panoramic view over the shores of Galway Bay. Journeying further to Belharbour you arrive at the old abbey of Corcomroe. This is 10km from Ballyvaughan and is a National Monument. Founded in 1180 by Donal Mor O’Brien for the Cistercians, the Abbey is properly titled “Abbey of St Mary of the Fertile Rock”. In 1317, the abbey was used as a barracks by Dermot O Brien the night before the battle of Lurgan, or Corcomroe, which was fought on the western ridge of the Monastery by rival O’Brien factions. In the aisles of the abbey the remains of the slain O’Brien’s lie buried. The Abbey passed through the ownership of several O’Brien’s. The Cistercian monks meanwhile tended to the building and continued their ministry.

The ruins at Corcomroe to-day consist of a church and small cloister with a number of demolished domestic buildings. The church is laid in cruciform with a plane nave. The construction of the chancel and chapels are more elaborate. Behind the altar is a fine example of a triple light Gothic window with a single light overhead. There are a number of monuments carved in stone to the chiefs who lie buried within. King Conor O’Brien was buried here in 1268. The effigy shows Conor, clean shaven with long hair falling in elaborate locks. The partly defaced crown is decorated with what seem to be fleur de lis. The left hand holds a sceptre and in the right a shrine, suspended around the neck of the figure. The figure appears to be dressed in a robe and is lying on a cloth or cloak. On his feet are pointed shoes that seem to rest on a cushion. On the cover of the tomb is the effigy of a smiling bishop.

The pillars in the chancel are headed with an elaborate carving of floral and other designs. The pillars in the south chapel are decorated with some grotesque human figures.

Corcomroe is a lovely tranquil place. One imagines the monks in prayer and song in this beautiful location. Nearby they have plenty of fruit and nuts and herbs from the fertile rock. Even to day the abbey has a unique atmosphere. Part of the structure is currently under the care of Duchas, who are entrusted to the preservation of all national monuments.

6km northwards at New Quay is the remains of Mount Vernon Lodge, where Lady Gregory spent summer days with visits from the literary revivalists including W.B. Yeats, George Bernard Shaw etc. Yeats set his play “The Dreaming of the Bones” in the hills above Corcomroe. The literary tradition of the area was previously enshrined by the great poets O Dalaigh.

You can travel back through the heartland of the Burren to Carron where one solitary pub provides sustenance for the weary traveller. Just before the hamlet, the outdoor pursuit centre under the auspices of the VEC provides an outdoor learning experience and an outreach campus for NUIG is also situated nearby. In Caron itself a new energy is being brought to the area.
Following an in-depth examination of farming practices in the region, Dr Brendan Dunford has established a centre in Carron to promote sustainable eco friendly Farming in the region and to educate both land dwellers and visitors alike about the Burren. It is a project that is quickly bearing fruit.
A short Detour from east of Carran heading for the town of Boston (unlike the town of the same name in the USA, this Boston has a handful of inhabitants!) the road leads to the Burren Perfumery where a small enterprise offers scents and soaps based on the Burren fragrances. The area around here is excellent for walking and sightseeing. A whole day can be spent ambling the narrow boreens and pathways that transverse the hills at Turloughmore and the famous Mullaghmore. There is as much dramatic scenery as is available to be found in the region. A proposal to build an interpretative centre at the site of Mullaghmore has been abandoned. The current thinking favours a more piecemeal community approach to fostering interest in the area. This is a very sensitive issue for North Clare and deserves much thought and debate before a lasting solution is achieved.

From Carron travelling west over the road on the church side of the village is another opportunity to view more of the incredible landscape. The turlough behind Cassidy’s pub can be best seen from the top of the hill by the Hostel. The turlough is either a dry dustbowl or full lake surrounded by sparse vegetation, depending on the season and the rain. Onwards on this road brings you back to Caherconnell and intersects the N67. The O Davoren law school was founded at Caher Mhic Neachtain c 1500 close to here. Continuing through the intersection and bearing south, the road leads to the lovely church at Noughaval. The old ruins are thought to be those of a 10th century monastery. The patron saint is St Mochua. Outside the grounds of the old church stands an octagonal stone pillar known as the market cross. The horizontal line served as a measurement for wool etc. and was used on local market days up to the Famine period. The more recent chapel by the road was bought by the Bishop of Galway, Dr Browne from the Church of Ireland where it stood at Ballyvaughan, and transported block by block to the present location as a Catholic church in 1943.

At the eastern border of the Burren 15km along the main road from Kilfenora lies the town of Corofin. Killinaboy Medieval Church and Round Tower is on this road just 3km before the town. Lake Inchiquin is close by and some good fishing. The original Irish Cottages for rent are still available at Clifden Hill. The hillside offers fine views over the lake and is a pleasant drive. The River Fergus is also a good source of brown trout.

The Clare Heritage Centre at Corofin pioneered the accessing of Parish records and other genealogy services using computer. While it may seem commonplace to-day, back in the early 1980’s a local schoolmaster, Naoise Cleary succeeded in getting the parish records for all the Clare churches and unifying them in a database that he made available to visitors. The Centre is situated in the town centre and has a collection of local ephemera and other historical exhibits. They provide a professional service for anyone wishing to trace ancestors from these parts.

Northwards close to Gort lies the impressive Kilmacduagh 12th century monastic settlement. The Round Tower is still complete and the grounds with many small churches give an indication of religious life before the Reformation. Equally impressive is the settlement at Dysert O Dea 5km south of Corofin where Richard de Clare fought the famous Battle. The round tower here is but a stump of about forty feet.

The church at Dysert O Dea was built by St Tola who died in 735 AD. The carved doorway of the church is impressive with a carved semi circular frieze of heads. The detail of expression of each face is noteworthy. The Cross of Dysert which stands apart from the church. The base plinth of the cross was an addition of 1871, when it was re-erected by Francis Hutchinson Synge. The cross was previously repaired in 1683 by Michael O’Dea. The north face shows a carved figure with crosier and two other figures holding tau-shaped crosiers. The east and west faces of the cross have some intricate interlaced Celtic patterns decorating the stone.

An old towered keep, O’Dea Castle lies in a field nearby. A reception centre and some light refreshments and further information are available at the Castle.

There is much more that could be said about the Burren region and volumes of books and other material are available for the committed explorer. A day at minimum is required to begin to open the secrets and appreciate the landscape. Any tour of the Burren requires some planning and the purchase of a map and some dedicated reference material.

There are some very good walking maps available that divide the area into manageable segments. More detailed Ordinance Survey maps in the Discovery series can be purchased at most book shops and visitor centres in the area. As with any place, local knowledge is priceless. It is a good idea to stop and enquire about the area when passing through small villages or when taking a break. Most locals will offer you insights that will add to the experience and may even have a story that will embellish the hard historical record.

A new dawn for farming in the Burren - Dr Brendan Dunford
The Burren is a place which has become well known right around the world for a number of good reasons. Its beautiful flowers for example, featuring species from Mediterranean and Arctic climes, complemented by an impressive fauna from the feral goat to most of Irelands 30 native butterfly species. Equally distinctive are its monuments, from the imperious Poulnabrone Portal tomb to the humble herdsman’s cottages, and the thousands of fascinating stone structures in between. Of no less interest is its striking geology, featuring turloughs - disappearing lakes draining into labyrinthine cave systems – and pavements – massive sweeps of limestone dissected by deep, linear grikes. For all of these reasons and more it is safe to say that this really is a very special place.

In recent years however another aspect of the Burren has emerged to assume its rightful place in the impressive heritage of the region: the story of the people of the Burren and their impact on the landscape. For over six thousand years the farm families of the Burren have demonstrated ingenuity and no small degree of tenacity to wrest a living from the regions rocky hills and fertile valleys. Though no ‘Golden Vale’ in terms of productivity, the quality of farm produce from the Burren has long been renowned: a visitor named Coulter claimed in 1862 that the pastures of the Burren ‘are said to afford even in those spots that are apparently most barren, pasturage of the best description, which renders the fat sheep and cattle of the Burren proverbial amongst Irish agriculturists’.

It is now widely accepted that the Burren is not a natural landscape, but a farmed landscape, steeped in 6,000 years of agricultural tradition and use. Rather than representing a destructive force, it is the generations of human ‘interference’ with this environment which has ensured that its resplendent pastures with their mats of mountain avens, multicoloured orchid spikes and cool-blue gentians, are as rich and extensive as they thankfully are today. It is this continuous land use that has kept scrub at bay, protecting monuments and limestone pavements that would otherwise be occluded.

But in today’s Ireland, the balance between farming and the land has changed. New technologies (from silage to machinery), uncertain farm policies and global markets, the ongoing ravages of TB and a buoyant off-farm economy and have resulted in a steady movement away from farming the heritage-rich hills of the Burren. One obvious impact has been the undergrazing of these pastures, sometimes resulting in extensive scrub encroachment, particularly in the archaeologically-rich southern Burren. This has brought into sharp focus the value of the regions farmers, not just in terms of the quality food they produce, but also in terms of their role in sustaining the unique heritage of the Burren.
A new project, ‘BurrenLIFE - Farming for Conservation in the Burren’ is attempting to tackle some of these issues. Appropriately housed in the Old Carron Schoolhouse, where the great champion of Irish culture and heritage, Michael Cusack once studied, this 5-year project began in early 2005. Funded through the EU LIFE Nature fund, the project is a unique partnership between Burren farmers and leading specialists in agriculture (Teagasc) and environment (the National Parks and Wildlife Service), aimed at protecting the habitats of the Burren and supporting the farm families who play such a key role in their conservation.

The bread and butter work of the four-member BurrenLIFE project team involves working closely with Burren farmers, exploring ways of changing their grazing and feeding regimes to help protect the habitats on their farms. The impacts of these modified farming practices are closely monitored to determine how they impact on not just the habitats, but on the farmers’ time and finances. Other project actions include removal of scrub to restore access for livestock, as well as a range of educational, marketing and promotional initiatives.

The project has already generated a lot of interest in Ireland and beyond because of its approach of working hand in hand with farmers, building on their knowledge and ideas rather than having the audacity to tell them what to do and how to do it. In an age of regulation and designation, this amounts to a simple, practical, yet innovative approach. For if we are to hang on to this special place in years to come, we need to work with and support these farmers in their age-old role as custodians of this most remarkable of landscapes. More information at www.burrenlife.com and www.burrenbeo.com.

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher lie 5 km North West of Liscannor commences at hags Head at a height of 120 metres and continues along for 8km reaching about 214 metres. The sheer cliff face is a stopping point on the migration route of many seabirds. The most notable are Guillemot, Razorbill, Puffin, Kittiwake, Herring, Greatblackbilled Gulls, Fulmar Chough and Peregrine. The usual point of viewing is at O’Brien’s Tower.

In the past years, Clare County Council has applied for World Heritage status for the Cliffs, and has undertaken a dramatic redevelopment of tourist facilities at the site. Walkways and access has been improved and extra viewing decks installed to allow visitors see the majesty of the cliffs safely. The cliff edge, which can be dangerous has been secured and a team of rangers are on hand to supply local information and to ensure the safety of visitors.

Unless you are prepared to travel very early in the day to the Cliffs of Moher, you can expect to view the seascape in the company of many hundreds of visitors. Annually visitor numbers are about 700,000 and are expected to rise to about 1 million following the redevelopment.

The cliffs themselves are constructed of layers of sandstone, flagstone and shale. Along the coast nearby are several quarries that extract the flagstone for architectural purposes. A rudimentary flagstone wall continues all along the cliff face, erected by Cornelius O’Brien, local landlord and Member of Parliament for the area. In 1835, O’Brien constructed the tower at the Cliff top, for the amusement and enjoyment of his friends. At one stage he even had a marble dining table constructed on the ledge above the cliffs. The stone cliff face wall is reputed to have been the result of a wager O’Brien had with an unwitting colleague, whereupon O’Brien undertook to have a wall of 5 miles constructed within a week. O’Brien won the wager easily as his quarries nearby supplied the simple structure which was erected easily in the time. O’Brien also provided a piper at the Cliffs for the amusement of visitors. The unfortunate piper, however, to his peril later fell drunk over the cliffs and met his end.

Each promontory of the cliffs has a Gaelic name that contains much lore and animates the Celtic legends that abound. Aill Na Searrach, linked to the Fianna and the sad end that became of the trans morphed heros as they raced to their death over the cliff face. Aill Briste Croi, Branaunbeg, Branaunmore etc. To-day, surfers are creating legends with attempts to surf a 25 foot swell that crests off Aill Na Searrach. Experienced surfers are towed out from Doolin and catch the perilous wave for a thrill of a lifetime! It must be said however, that even for elite surfers, this is a deathly dangerous endeavour and already three surfers have had to be airlifted to safety since the wave was “discovered” some short years ago.

The cliffs are best viewed in the afternoon as the evening sun illuminates the deepest crevices and the seabirds come home to nest. In the months of May and again in June, Puffins may be seen coming out to take the warmth of the evening sun on the island below the cliff face. Viewing can often be hampered by fog or sea mist, especially in the early morning. The new visitor centre is however, equipped with the latest audiovisual presentations and a special area called “The Ledge” offers a stunning alternative for times when the real cliff face is not easily seen. There is an admission fee to the exhibition area of the centre, but it is well worth the cover charge for those who are interested in exploring the Cliffs of Moher and the area to their full potential.

Bunratty Castle

The folk park at Bunratty is the third of Clare’s Iconic tourist attractions. The park was created around the 15th century castle built by the O’Brien’s of Thomond.

There had been various castles at the site from the earliest wooden settlement built in 1251 by Robert de Muscegros. Richard de Clare replaced the tower with a stone castle in 1277. A newer castle built in 1353 by the Justiiciar de Rkeby fell into Irish hands and the present structure is reputed to have been erected by the Mc Namara clan in 1425. The Mc Namaras lost the castle to the O’Briens and it was the O’Brien’s of Thomond who altered the building to its present form in the fifteenth century.

The impressive castle is oblong with square towers at each corner. At both the southern and northern ends the sides are united with a large arch. Inside the castle there are many rooms. The south eastern tower has a chapel with beautiful stucco ceiling decorations which was designed about 1619. The Papal Nuncio to Ireland in 1646, Rinuccini, was so impressed with the castle and grounds that he praised it as one of the most beautiful places he had seen, without compare even in his native Italy.

In the siege of the castle in 1646, Buntratty was defended by Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania. William Penn, an infant at that stage was most certainly at the Castle during this time.
The Castle as it exists to-day was the result of a restoration in 1960 through the collaboration of the then owner, Lord Gort, The Irish Tourist Board and the Commissioners for Public Works. The tapestries and paintings in the castle were sourced around this time and installed to bring the castle to a replica of the atmosphere that prevailed in the great house.

The castle is open to the public for daily viewing and it also hosts a medieval banquet each evening in the summer season. The banquets are very popular and can be booked in advance. A traditional supper is followed by rich entertainment and joviality as befits the banquet of a king.

The extensive grounds of Bunratty form a folk park that is rich in the culture of the area and which preserves many of the pastimes and social history of the region from the time of the famine onwards. Over the period of restoration of the Castle, the developers sought out as many examples of Irish cottages that existed in the region. There are many variations of houses that were favoured, depending on local conditions. A fisherman’s cottage from West Clare, an example of a holding in the rich pastures of Tipperary or Limerick, a cottiers abode from the famine era etc. These cottages were transported from their original place and rebuilt and fitted as they stood hundreds of years ago. Inside each is a unique glimpse of a simpler life in Ireland and the rich heritage that has formed our race.

The cottages are not idle either. Many have working examples of crafts that have been synonymous with the country. Bread baking, weaving, knitting, candle making and other crafts are demonstrated throughout the day and visitors are invited to participate. In the evenings there are ceili nights and musical evenings in the village.

As the country developed and prospered, especially after the 1970’s, it was felt that the traditional Irish shop front was becoming somewhat extinct. Shannon Heritage added a 20th century town street to the park, complete with working shops and other crafts outlets. This important addition has preserved another facet of Ireland and has assisted the country in appreciating the uniqueness of the Irish way of life through the years.

The park has also a working farm complete with the most comprehensive collection of preserved and functional farm equipment, some dating over one hundred years. The collection was made possible by the late Dean Talbot.

Other points of interest are the walled gardens which have recently been restored and are part of the folk park’s Living Gardens Museum, Hazelbrook House, home of the Hughes brothers and founders of HB ice cream and Ardcroney Church, a fine old Church of Ireland that was moved from Ardcroney in Tipperary and rebuilt in Bunratty in 1998.

The Folk Park is an excellent place to visit and can occupy a half day and longer, depending on your interests. If the changing weather makes other plans impossible, you should make a trip to Bunratty and enjoy a day’s crash course on the heritage of the West of Ireland that will remain with you forever.